Classic Rock Summer Challenge - Craig Yr Ysfa
Climbing Amphitheatre Buttress VDiff, Craig Yr Ysfa, Carneddau. Credit Aled Williams
To celebrate the 55th Anniversary of the Joe Brown Shops in Snowdonia, The International School of Mountaineering (ISM), The Climbers Shop, The Joe Brown Shops and UKC have teamed up to offer you a fantastic summer rock climbing challenge right here in the UK.
This rock-climbing challenge has been born out of thumbing through the late Ken Wilson’s iconic coffee table book ‘Classic Rock’ during Covid restrictions and lockdown! If you’re not familiar with the book; ‘Classic Rock’ has received iconic and legendary status over the years, detailing Ken’s collection of some of the best easy to moderate rock climbing routes here in the UK. You can read more HERE or buy your own copy HERE.
Throughout the summer, we will focus on some of the key routes and crags in the challenge but climbing is not just about ticking the classics - we are blessed with thousands of world class routes both in Snowdonia and The Lake District so while you’re out enjoying the Challenge don’t forget to explore those too!
Craig yr Ysfa , Carneddau – North Wales
Craig yr Ysfa
Craig yr Ysfa is a superb mountain crag on the eastern face of Carnedd Llewelyn at the western end of the Cwm Eigiau valley, nestled in the quiet Carneddau mountains. This very atmospheric and adventurous crag has many historic and classic routes, such as the brilliant ‘Amphitheatre Buttress***’ (VD), all 960 ft of it, which is undoubtedly a contender for one of the best ‘VD’ rock climbs in the UK. Multi-pitch routes to 300m+, with Mur Y Niwl8***(VS) and Aura*** (E2) are also worth doing, and then there’s the historic ascent of ‘Great Gilly’ climbed back in 1900. Back then, this must have been such a tremendous adventure, and imagine today climbing this old-fashioned traditional route in less than perfect conditions wearing nailed boots, a ‘hemp’ rope tied directly around waist connecting you to your partner, having no gear to rely on if you fall off and heading into the unknown with just that sense of adventure and exploration! Even today, if you chose it as a fun alternative on a damp day don’t expect this to be easy!
Great Gully*** (S) - Craig yr Ysfa (UKClimbing)
First Ascent – J.M Archer Thomson, R.I Simey and W.G Clay in April 1900
Extract from Classic Rock – The walls are set apart at the maximum for back and foot technique. Progress can be made by a sort of buttock rotation on the smooth left wall, but only slowly and with considerable effort. Luckily, it is possible to decorate the crack,between various chock-stones, with nuts and slings:so much easier than having to untie, thread the rope behind the conveniently jammed stone and then tie on again! – Tony Moulam
© Rockfax - A great expedition for those looking for more of an adventurous experience. The route has an amazing cave pitch and a ferocious chimney section. The climbing grade is Severe, which puts it above most other routes in this book and it is even harder if damp, which it usually is.
Everyone should be equipped with waterproofs and head torches especially in bad conditions as you can't see very well in the cave. Some good experience of multi-pitch climbing is essential. Allow a whole day since it usually takes longer than expected.
Start by traversing below the base of the Craig yr Ysfa Gully and round the base of the next buttress. Continue past a gully that vanishes halfway up the crag and round the corner to below the intimidating Great Gully. Scramble up the vegetation to where the climbing starts.
Pitch 1) 30m. Climb a short crack on the left, past a jammed stone. Then scramble up for a further 25m.
Pitch 2) 40m. Surmount a big chockstone on the left, then 30m of scrambling leads to a belay under 'The Door Jamb'.
Pitch 3) 18m. The Door Jamb. Climb a short steep groove on the right, passing a ledge on the left, to a larger one. Walk back left into the gully and belay.
Pitch 4) 15m. Go directly up the gully, or better, climb a deep 13m chimney and a crack on the right, moving out left into the gully near the top.
Pitch 5) 13m. The Chimney. Climb this awkwardly facing right, until a platform on the right is gained. Alternatively go direct to the top.
Pitch 5a) 13m. Ascend a crack in the right wall of The Chimney.
Pitch 5b) 17m. Avoiding the Chimney is much easier. About 20 feet lower down, climb the right wall via a big flake. A muddy path leads right, then back left, to a platform above the chimney. Easier but misses out the fun.
Pitch 6) 37m. Go up a groove on the right, then walk up on stones to below the next step.
Pitch 7) 70m. Climb a narrow sloping chimney on the right rib or surmount two mossy chockstones on its left. A further 20m of scrambling leads over a big, jammed stone to another stone.
Pitch 8) 6m. Climb an awkward undercut chimney on the right of the stone, or the right wall starting slightly lower, then step into the top of the chimney.
Pitch 9) 15m. The Great Cave Pitch. The hardest pitch. Go up the left wall of the cave with difficulty, then traverse left to the outer of two chockstones. A tremendous ending to a stimulating outing.
Descriptions compiled by British Mountain Guide Adrian Nelhams