Get Ready For Winter!

With winter fast approaching, now is a good time to check your kit!

Photo: International School of Mountaineering

British Mountain Guide Adrian Nelhams talks through how to keep your winter climbing kit in tip top condition for safe snowy adventures……

Ice Axes and Leashes

Firstly, look at your ice axes and make sure they are in good condition.

Check the nuts and bolts - If you are changing the pick then it is sometimes a good idea to replace the nuts as some have nylon threads.

If you use leashes, check them for any wear and make sure they are right for the job. The right leash system is really important as the leashes attach you to your tools so they need to be the right length and comfortable around your wrists.

Crampons

Sharpen your crampons with a fine file so the teeth are sharp and will bite into hard waterfall ice.

Check they fit your winter boots well and that all the nuts and bolts are tight.

Also, check that your crampon straps are in good order with no frayed ends. There is nothing worse than trying to thread a frozen frayed strap through two small eyelets with gloves on!

Ice Screws

Remember, always dry your screws after you have used them by taking off the protective end caps. Always use the protective end cap as it keeps the teeth of the ice screw nice and sharp –you will be glad of this one day!

I always keep and transport mine with the endcaps and sleeves, which also protects the thread on the shaft and in turn helps when screwing the ice screw into the ice.

One tip is to make a hole in the end cap so that any moisture from the screw is allowed to drain away, stopping any potential corrosion.

Ropes

A dry treated rope is obvious for those warmer days when the ice is wet, the last thing you want is a heavy or iced up rope that now won’t fit through a belay plate or becomes too stiff to use safely.

Dry the ropes out on an indirect heat source and store in a dry/dark room or cupboard and always check them carefully each time you use them.

Harness

Check over your harness for signs of wear and give some thought to how you are going to rack the ice screws.

Helmet

This is a given, just make sure yours is comfortable as you will be wearing it all day. Make sure it work well with any hoods in your clothing system. No one likes spindrift down their back!

If your helmet is damaged or old then re-purpose it and get a new one. You can’t replace your head.

Boots

Give your boots a good airing and change the laces if necessary.

Lubricate any stiff zips and check the lips on the sole to ensure there is plenty of rubber for clip on crampons to attach to.

Clothing

Give some thought to your clothing and choose a layering system that will not only keep you warm but also allow you plenty of movement.

Gloves are very important and two + pairs of thick finger gloves are best. Wear one pair and carry the other, so that when one pair gets cold and wet you can change them and your hands will stay continually warm.

Top tip: Keep the thick pair for climbing and wear a thin fleece pair on the walk in because if you do sweat in the thick ones you will have cold hands from the word go.

Take a fleece hat that fits comfortably under your helmet and carry a pair of sunglasses, as generally the best ice in cold temperatures will be found in the sun!

Lighting

Always carry a small headlamp, as the days are shorter in winter.

The main thing with all your kit is that you know how it works and that it is organised because the more organised you are with your leashes, racking, ice screws etc. the easier, less pumped, warmer and safer you’ll be!

More great tips on looking after winter hardware from Petzl. Download the PDF here….

entretien-piolets-crampons-broches_EN.pdf

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